From the 3rd Floor: May 2009

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

The Kimono Post (part 2)

Minna-san, konnichiwa. This post is a continuation of the previous one.

If you're wondering why there's a sudden influx of Japanese culture-related editorials, it's because this is the season of Japanese festivals, and this is my (sort of) tribute to the festivities

Kimono, The Straight Line

The ultimate goal of kimono-wearing is to achieve the tube look, meaning, to hide all the womanly curves by padding the waist area. Elegance is a key value in Kimono wearing, as it actually limits the length of steps you take (trust me, it's very difficult to run in a kimono).

There are many types of women's kimono, as mentioned previously. They include:

1. Furisode

2.Tomesode

3.Homongi

4. Tsukesaga

5.Komon & Edo Komon

6.Iromuji

(Note: These are the average women's wear, I'm not going into the more elaborate kimono worn by performers, brides and geisha).

The fabric by which kimono are made usually is heavy, thick and lined. The materials can be satin ,silk, cotton, etc. It's usually very expensive. One set can cost up to RM 40, 000 complete with obi (belt) and accesories (which I will cover in Part 3).

Let's begin with :

1. The Furisode

The furisode is worn by young unmarried women, usually during the traditional Japanese coming of age ceremony (when they turn 20) as well as to weddings. YUI san once wore a red furisode to the Japan Academy Awards ceremony in 2007.

Furisode is characterized by its long , swinging sleeves. In olden times, the long swishing sleeves were worn to attract potential husbands ( how things have changed.....). The colours of the Furisode are usually very loud and garish, like bright yellow, red , orange and turqoise. The sleeves of a furisode range from 70cm to 150cm long, and are categorized into 3 groups based on sleeve length (but I won't go there).

2 .Tomesode

One a young woman gets married, she trades in her furisode for a more mature look, and wears a tomesode for formal functions like state events, weddings, company dinners and the like.

There are 2 types of tomesode, firstly the Kurotomesode (pic above), kuro meaning black. They are the most formal kimono in Japanese culture and are worn for state occasions and by a bride or groom's mother during a wedding.
Tomesode are crested kimono, and have 5 family crest embroidered into it. Two are found below the shoulders and 3 at the back, also at the same level. They are visible here as small white dots near the sleeve tops.The family crest or mon is specific for each family. So if you would like to wear a tomesode, be sure to get an un-crested one, or else you would be wearing someone else's name on your shoulders.

Another distinctive feature of a tomesode is that all the designs are confined below the waist. Also, the sleeves are short and the sleeve opening conservatively smaller.

The second type of tomesode is the irotomesode (iro=colour), which is similar to kurotomesode but is made of sobre-coloured fabric instead of black. The designs below the waist is less elaborate and don't contain gold or silver threads.

Irotomesode are considered less formal than Kurotomesode. During a wedding, extended relatives of the bride or groom will wear this type of kimono.

3. Homongi

Homongi literally means visiting wear, and are worn by both married and unmarried women. This kimono is less formal than the Tomesode, and is worn by friends of the bride/groom during a wedding or for formal parties.

The distinctive feature of homongi are that the designs are not limited below the waist are found all the way up to the shoulders and sleeves. As mentioned earlier, fabric designs are seasonal. Cherry blossoms ( sakura) and brightly coloured flowers are usually related to spring, summer designs include water patterns. For autumn, Chrysanthemums and maple leaf designs are common while winter designs include pine, bamboo and crane.

4. Tsukesage

This kimono is similar to the homongi, but has less elaborate designs which are more contained.

(Source: Livedoor blog)

5.Komon

Komon are characterized by the small running designs which are repeated throughout the garment. They are considered casual wear and may be worn while running errands, everyday use and the like. Some women wear these to restaurants, the theater(not the cinema), tea ceremonies and to the temple when paired with formal obi.

6.Iromuji

Iromuji are single coloured kimono, usually worn for tea ceremonies.

Finally,
here are some pics Yune took when we went for Ennichi last November.
These women were involved in carrying out the tea ceremony.

Notice that they are wearing both Iromuji as well as Komon.

This was a Furisode on display at the recent UCSI bunkasai, which I briefly visited.

Last of all, here is my Yukata, which arrived last Saturday from the only Malaysian online wholesaler ohjapan.

Black background with hanabi (fireworks) and leaf design.
I've just finished sewing the obi today, blue with green stripes. Now must practice tying....

Monday, May 18, 2009

The Kimono Post (Part 1)

It would seem that the extremely hot and dry weather we've had is finally settling down due to spots of rain. I think it's great. It was very hard to survive that weather in a house with no air-conditioning. Thankfully, I had a one week break and went back to my hometown, where my room has an air-con. After that, it was back to sauna conditions and reality.

I have decided to make my blog more informative. Therefore, from now onwards, there will be editorials on interesting subjects (a.k.a. subjects that Michelle likes).

Here we go...

Kimono, The Misconseptions Cleared(part 1 )

The months of June to August is summertime in Japan, and also the season of various celebrations like the many Matsuris, Ennichi and Bon Odori (Obon dances). Usually, these festivals are marked by street side stalls selling foods like candied apples, takoyaki ( sotong-in-batter balls), etc. as well as games like goldfish scooping and fireworks display.

In Malaysia, the Japan club organizes a Bon Odori in Shah Alam every year around 15th July, and this year will mark the 33rd time the Bon Odori will be held.

Bon Odori, Shah Alam, 2006. (Credit: Kurogane Anime Blogger)

For summer festivals, the Japanese usually wear a yukata. Confused? I'll explain..

Kimono is a general term in Japanese meaning 'clothing'. There are many types and they are worn for different occasions.

In this part, I'll talk only on the yukata, the summer kimono.

Yukata are usually made of thin cotton material, and is unlined (just means that it doesn't have an extra layer of cloth sewn underneath),unlike normal kimono like the furisode, tomesode and homongi which are made of heavier fabric and is lined with satin or cotton.

A furisode kimono.

Cotton yukata with hanhaba obi.

The obi or belt is called a hanhaba(half-width) obi because it is usually about 18cm in width, unlike normal obi which is about 35cm in width. Hanhaba obi are usually found in one colour without elaborate designs.

Hanhaba obi ( Credits: Shimazakura.com)

A normal width maru obi, which is folded half before wearing.

The most common way to tie the hanhaba obi when wearing a yukata is the bunko bow style.

Here's another variation, called the aoi style

In these modern times, there are also pre-tied (instant?)obis, known as Tsukuri obi:

Yukata worn by younger unmarried women and young children are brightly coloured with large flower prints, whilst older married women like to wear subdued colours and designs, like dark blue with white prints etc. Examples of subdued designs favoured by the older generation.

Examples of designs for younger women.

Men's yukata and obi are simpler, and are usually dark earth colours like navy blue,white, black and beige (regardless of wearer's age):

Men and boys sometimes wear a jinbei (or hippari) to summer festivals. It consists of a knee-length shorts and coat.

Although the jinbei is meant for men and young boys, it is sometimes worn by kids of both sexes as well as young women, who wear them in bright floral designs.